A Printable Day Time Dress from 1832 for the Ensemble Eclectica

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Today’s 1832 paper doll dress is a bit of a mystery to me. One of my personal pet peeves is that so many fashion plates aren’t clearly labeled with the type of dress. I suppose people in the 1830s did not need the labels, but I do. Because fashion plates are often separated from the magazines, it’s a big headache trying to sort out the context of the costumes. I just don’t really want to bother most of the time.

Here’s what I can say with some confidence about this 1832 paper doll dress. I know it is day-wear because of the high collar. Because the dress has slippers and a parasol, my wager is that it’s a daytime walking or promenade dress.

June 1832 Fashion Plate from La Mode digitized by the LA Public Library

Might I be wrong? Yes, I might be totally wrong.

But that’s my wager based on the fashion plate and my growing knowledge of 1830s fashion.

A few elements about this dress that I absolutely loved. I loved the way the stripes emphasize the waist on the bodice It’s just so smart. I loved the bright yellow bonnet which contrasted rather than matched.

In the 1830s, roller printed cottons were very popular and they often had elaborate striped patterns on them. Roller printing is a method of printing fabric using a large copper roller, like a giant rolling pin, engraved with the design. Because the design is on a cylinder, stripes are very easy to print. Developed in the end of the 18th century, these fabrics got cheaper and cheaper over time. By the 1830s, they were widely available. So, stripes took the fashion world by storm. Plus, stripes really show off the silhouette of the era.

I decided to make my stripes white and pink and green based on this fashion plate from 1831, which is a bit of a deviation from the source material, the french fashion magazine La Mode. La Mode‘s fashion plates are really neat- they show the back and the front of the same costume, but often in different prints. So, you can see the dress on the left and the dress on the right are the same dress- just from two different angles. So cool.

Last, but certainly not least, I really am enjoying this process and I hope you all are too!

A Walking Dress from 1831 for Ensemble Eclectica

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Today’s paper doll gown is an 1831 walking dress. When I wrote about the 1830’s carriage dress last week, I talked about the silhouette of this era. So, I’ll save you all from having to listen to all that over again and focus on walking dresses.

Fashion plate from the June 1831 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library showing a pair of walking dresses.
Fashion plate from the June 1831 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library

Like that carriage dress, this 1831 walking dress is designed for daytime wear and intended for outdoor activities like walking. Dresses like this could also be worn when attending informal events, such as visits, shopping, or afternoon social gatherings. Like most day dresses of the 1830s, the necklines were high, covering the collar bone. Along with the dress, there were essential accessories- bonnets and gloves. These bonnets were often quite large with wide brims to shield the face from the sun and covered in lots of ribbon trim. Just like the dresses of the 1830s, bonnets were lavish.

This gown appeared in the The Lady’s Monthly Museum in June 1831. This magazine is a treasure trove of 1830s culture with serials, poetry, music, and, of course, lots of fashion.

When I was reinterpreting this dress for my paper doll, there were several elements that I really loved, both because of the design and in terms of how they reflected 1830s fashion. One of the first things that stood out to me was the color combination. I really liked the periwinkle blue paired with the green. This color combination felt fresh and historically appropriate, as the 1830s saw a wide range of bold and contrasting color choices in women’s fashion. Green was particularly popular, because of the development of artificial green pigments, like Paris green in 1814 and the earlier Scheele’s green.

Unfortunately, this type of green pigment was made from arsenic compounds, so it was very toxic. That didn’t dull it’s popularity. Generally, people didn’t realize how toxic these green dyes could be and it wasn’t until the 1890s that they were discontinued, though green fell out of fashion as a fashion color in the 1860s which might have something to do with the toxicity of the dye. Who knows? It did stick around as an insecticide into the 1930s and 1940s.

Man, history is weird. It boggles my mind to think that this dye/paint pigment, which was so popular in the 1830s, later became used as an insecticide. The things I learn researching paper dolls…

Fashion history often intersects with other unexpected parts of culture in such funny ways. I digress, as I often do.

Next up will be a dress from 1832 later this week.

The Carriage Dress: 1830 for Ensemble Eclectica

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Today’s 1830s paper doll dress is a carriage dress from June 1830. I’ve always loved the military inspired dresses of the 1830s and this is a great example.

Like any period of fashion, the 1830s had a specific fashionable silhouette. Women sought to achieve a wide, soft sloped shoulder line, very small waist, and full bell-shaped skirt that hit the ankles. The big sleeves, the wide skirts, the belts- all of these disparate elements came together to create the appearance of a smaller waist. The exaggerated fashionable silhouette is both charming and, at times, a little disquieting to the modern eye, I think. In poorly illustrated fashion plates, it sometimes ends up looking quite terrifying. For years, I disliked it. I remember as a child and teen seeing these dresses and thinking they looked so dumb.

A fashion plate from the publication The Lady's Monthly Museum in June of 1830 showing a carriage dress. This image is from the LA Public Library's Casey Fashion Plate Index.
Fashion plate from the June 1830 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library

Now that I’m older, I’ve actually come to find a sort of charm to the 1830s. Yes, it looks very silly, but there’s some real whimsy here. It’s such a ridiculous looking period in western fashion that I find it endearing. I also think there is tendency to think of the Victorian period as sepia-toned and very elegant, but I love the 1830s for being silly.

Let us embrace silly looking clothing!

So, this is a carriage dress. Carriage dresses were slightly more formal than walking dresses and were worn for carriage rides. They almost always feature a matching bonnet and as day dresses, they have a high neckline. (Basic 1830s rule of thumb: If the dress is a day dress, the neckline covers the collar bone. Evening dresses don’t, while ball gowns get positively risque with their necklines.)

This carriage dress was published in a fashion plate in the June 1830 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum which was a British periodical publication (so like a modern magazine) that started in 1798. It went through a few name changes and mergers, but ran until 1847. Along with fashion plates, it published biographies and portraits of famous aristocratic people, essays, and poems. Serialized stories also appeared in the Lady’s Monthly Museum, often before being published as novels. The magazine was quite successful and very exclusively aimed at women.

When I was reinterpreting this dress for my paper doll, I actually simplified it- which seems hard to imagine. The bonnet especially, because I wasn’t sure how to get the long trailing ribbons in a way that would work for the paper doll. I sort of regret omitting them, because they’re so typical of the period.

Lastly, and I want to be very clear here, this is a sort of new time period to me and I was learning as I drew this 1830s paper doll dress.

An 1830s Paper Doll Printable with her Historical Underwear for Ensemble Eclectica

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The Backstory of All This

I originally planned to spend all of December on a big project. It was going to be a series of paper dolls from 1830 to 1859. Julie Matthews’ December themes (like this one from 2015) inspired this idea, back when I started thinking about it. However, that didn’t quite go as planned — life happens. And that’s okay. My new plan is slightly smaller in scope. I’ll be posting paper dolls with historical clothing from the 1830s (and maybe 1840s and 1850s) on Tuesdays and Thursdays for the rest of December and possibly into January. Who can say? Not me.

I tend to hesitate about sharing things before they’re complete, because I dislike leaving projects undone. But lately, I’ve realized that’s a bit silly. Drawing paper dolls isn’t life or death, and it’s okay if things don’t go exactly as planned. I’d rather share what I’ve done and keep moving forward than leave the work sitting unfinished on my laptop. Plus, I think you’ll enjoy seeing the project even if it doesn’t work out like I had originally imagined it would.

In fact, no one would know I’d planned to do the 1840s and 1850s, if I hadn’t said anything. But here I am, being very honest. (I haven’t even started collecting reference images for the 1850s, so I am quite behind on that one. Probably won’t happen, which makes me sort of sad, honestly.)

Women’s Underwear In the Early 1830s

So, let’s talk a little about 1830’s women’s underwear, since today’s 1830s paper doll printable is a lady with some undies on. I based her underwear off this set from the V&A museum, though I made the stays/corset colorful based on this one.

In the 1830s, women’s underwear primarily consisted of a chemise, pantalettes, petticoats and a corset/stays. (Fun fact: The words “corset” and “stays” are both used in the 1830s, but the term “stays” largely falls out of use by the end of the decade.) Generally, these corsets used seams and cording providing support, rather then boning. (Also, boneing doesn’t mean bones- it means whale baleen.)

The chemise was a loose, knee-length garment made from lightweight cotton or linen, worn directly against the skin to safeguard outer garments from perspiration. Chemise’s had wide necklines. Pantalettes (also spelled pantaletes) or drawers covered the legs and provided some more modesty. I can’t seem to definitively determine which is the more precise term. Both terms seem to have been employed to describe similar garments and I’m not an expert on 1830s clothing.

Though not appearing in this 1830s paper doll printable, petticoats supported the wide skirts of the era. Here’s a lovely example from the Met. This is before anyone invented hoopskirts, so women wore lots of petticoats. Additionally, women often wore sleeve supports (like this or these) to get the right shape for the huge puffed sleeves of the era called, “sleeve puffs” which is the most wonderful name. I didn’t add sleeve puffs to the paper doll, because I wanted flexibility with sleeve shape, as it changes throughout the decade, and the puffs would have made that more difficult. Sometimes with paper dolls, functionality has to trump historical accuracy. (But man… I really do want to draw sleeve puffs someday.)

Happy Halloween!

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When I was a child, my grandmother always sent me a holiday card for Halloween and usually it was a paper doll card. This is why I always try to do a halloween paper doll.

Generally, when I think of gothic designs, I think of Morticia Addams from the movies. (Too young to have been a child of the TV show I’m afraid) and she’s a very mermaid skirts sort of design. However, I don’t see why mermaid skirts should get to have all the fun, so I went regency for this one. 

All in all, I think the paper doll’s hair is a bit 1920s and her dresses are regency and her border is very much art nuevo. All in all, what time period is this?

No idea, but I think it looks neat!

I hope you have a lovely safe and happy Halloween. Enjoy the paper dolls! I’ll be passing out candy and eating chili.

Celestial Night Blooming: A Fantasy Paper Doll

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I have no clue where to start when talking about today’s paper doll. I rarely give up on paper dolls (semi-finished projects not withstanding, that’s using a loss of interest, not frustration), but this fantasy princess night blooming paper doll came close. Twice.

To start with, there were serious layout issues. Confession: I don’t plan my layouts while I’m drawing my paper dolls.

(I had a lovely chat with at a pervious paper doll event and got advice that planning layouts while penciling is a much easier way to get around layout issues. This was such brilliant advice! And then I absolutely failed in all ways imaginable to actually follow through on the advice in anyway what-so-ever. Anyway, I should do it that way and I totally don’t. This is entirely a “me” problem.)

So, anyhow, when it came time to do the layout, I realized that none of these paper doll pieces were going to fit on the page! The dresses were too big. The wig/crown was weirdly sized. The extra bodice… anyway, I wracked my brain to sort out how to make this all happen. It was miserable. It took seven tries.

In the end, my solution was to go right up to the edge of my layout, because I work on an 8 by 10.5 inch canvas and surely no one needs more than a 1/4 inch margin on the page, right? Right… I got it done.

So, yay! Time to color. That would be easy, right? Wrong.

It started well. I found this beautiful color scheme from Sarah Renae Clark. When I saw it, I thought “What a perfect color scheme. It’s dark, but also kind of fun and unlike the colors I usually use.” But halfway through coloring, I thought it looked so awful I nearly threw up my hands and abandoned the entire thing. I came so close to just saying- Welp, this one was a dud.

Anyway, yesterday, I knew I didn’t have anything to post to the blog for this week and I said, “Just color it. Even if you hate it at the end, at least it will be done and you can never look at it again.”

I set a timer (I work well under the pressure of a timer) and I pushed through.

And you know what?

I absolutely love it. The gold and yellow I think goes beautiful with the black and pink. I really think it feels “night” but doesn’t feel gothic at all. I wanted night, but whimsy. Night, but also floral.

So, yes, this paper doll gave me fits. And yes, I nearly gave up, but here I am and I am so happy with how it came out.

Ensemble Electica: Sweat in Style

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Around the same time I was working on my tennis paper doll, I found myself thinking- I should draw some work out clothing for the Ensemble Electica paper dolls. Mostly, I was thinking this, because I hadn’t yet and who doesn’t want to draw paper doll leggings? (Probably plenty of people, but they don’t run a paper doll website.)

Personally, my favorite workout is yoga. I love how I feel after I do yoga. So, I included a yoga mat and the kind of clothing I would wear to do yoga if I was the sort of person who had dedicated yoga outfits. Aspirational yoga attire. My actual yoga attire is leggings and an oversized t-shirt with a walrus on it from the Indianapolis zoo, because the walrus is really cute and I like walrus.

So, this isn’t really a yoga paper doll, as much as a sporty fashion paper doll. Maybe she’s old school and going to step aerobics. (I actually also kinda love step aerobics.) Maybe she’s just putting on cute workout clothing to go out and buy a bagel. Who can say?

The dress was an extra piece from my tennis paper doll that I thought I would use here, as it wouldn’t fit on the tennis paper doll as I was doing the layout. Maybe she’s a really good tennis player.

Since I drew my sporty fashion paper doll and was coloring her at the same time I colored my tennis fashion paper doll, the most important thing to me was that the color scheme feel totally different. I didn’t want it to have the same vibe at all. So, the tennis paper doll’s vibe is very bright and fresh. This vibe is more calming and low key.

Ensemble Eclectica: Racket Ready Fashions

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While I’ve dabbled in “sporty fashion” before as a trend, this is the first time I’ve leaned into a specific sport. So, why not a tennis paper doll? I do I confess that all I know about tennis I learned from the scene in Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead where they play Questions and score it like tennis. (You can watch that scene here from the film version of the play which is excellent.) Still, I have connections to tennis… sort of.

My dear friend works a tennis shop, so I hear about tennis through her. I thought, she might like a tennis paper doll. (She has never asked me for one, but is generally supportive of my paper doll drawing habits.) Also, this summer I read in some fashion publications that tennis fashion was making a come back for summer 2024. As I’m not one to ignore a trend and I do like pleats, I thought- I’ll draw some of that! So, despite knowing nearly nothing about tennis, here we are.

Of course, tennis has all sorts of well-moneyed connotations. So, it has unsurprisingly always had a stronghold on fashion. Tennis dresses are all over the place in summer fashion magazines. Even back in the 1880s when women could play very few sports, tennis was on the list of “approved” options. While I saw more than one article proclaiming tenniscore as the trend of summer 2024, I think I’d argue- “When has tennis not been tied to summer fashion?”

Short of golf (which also has all sorts of specific fashion connotations), I can’t think of any sport more fashion contentious than tennis. Tennis has long been associated with the color white. Even today, the Wimbeldon championship has an all white dress code, because traditions matter in tennis. So, I made sure to include an all white outfit option for my paper doll. I almost included more all white options, but there’s a black and white version. so really… you can mix and match that with the color pieces and get all the white tennis clothing your heart might desire.

I drew a tennis racket based on my husband’s racket. He played varsity tennis in high school and is my other connection to tennis. I also drew a pickle-ball racket, which I guess is very popular these days? Pickle-ball is as mysterious to me as tennis is. Maybe more, because I don’t know anyone who plays. Anyway, I thought a few racket based sports might be fun.

If you need too, you can always print out several of these paper dolls. That way you can get enough rackets for a doubles match going. 🙂

Patron Exclusive: Extra Options for Dressing Up in 1936

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Patron Exclusive: Expanding the 1932 Autumn Wardrobe

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