A Dress from 1838 for the Ensemble Eclectica

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I know I shouldn’t have favorites, but I do and this dress from 1838 is one of them. It was first printed in Le Follet, a french fashion magazine, in 1838.

Fashion plate from 1838 printed in Le Follet and published in July 1838.
Le Follet fashion plate from July 1838

I think this dress is so beautiful. The sleeves are a delight with ribbons and ruching. There’s a slight princess waistline with deep pleating. I’m 90% sure this is a dinner dress, because its paired with a bonnet, but rather a cap of ribbon.

To me, this gown is late 1830s in it’s most elegant. The early 1830s are whimsical and fun, but the later part of the decade gets elegant. And this is elegant.

All right, let’s talk about other details, as the decade came to a close, the sleeves got narrower with accent details falling right above the elbow. You see a lot of upper sleeve decoration. There might be a fashion term for this other than “upper sleeve decoration”, but I’ll be darned if I know what it is.

I didn’t do a lot of patterned dresses during this project, because the other details are so complicated so often in these historical dresses, that I felt like the extra lines from pattern would just be visual clutter.

I didn’t do many patterned dresses for this project because the other details are often so intricate, adding patterns just seemed like visual clutter. However, I loved the floral sprig pattern on this gown—it added so much to the simple silhouette, so I decided to go for it. If I’m drawing a dress from 1838, I figured I might as well include a pattern once in a while.

In fact, I had so much fun coloring the pattern that I made a second version for my Patrons. If you’re a Patron—free or paid—you can check out the periwinkle version over on Patreon.

In the end, this dress from 1838 is a favorite of mine for being elegant and having delicate details. I’m glad I took the chance to add a pattern to the design, as it really enhances the gown’s beauty. I hope you enjoy seeing it as much as I enjoyed bringing it to life—be sure to check out the periwinkle version over on Patreon!

An 1837 Dress with Ruffles for the Ensemble Eclectica Paper Dolls

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This 1837 dress is from France. So, I’ve hopped across the channel to Paris for this one. One thing to notice about French fashions is that they are a little more edgy than English fashion and necklines were much lower.

I mean, we’re not talking like thongs here. It’s still the 1830s, but the French fashions just aren’t as stiff as the English ones. Of course, English fashion magazines were constantly ripping off French plates and copying them, so I don’t know! It’s all a whirl.

A fashion plate from 1837 published in Le Follet Magazine.
Le Follet Fashion plate from 1837

Anyway, Le Follet, the magazine from which this dress is based, does not offer handy labels. You can see the plate from the Los Angeles Public Library. So, I don’t know for sure what the purpose of this dress was. Based on the sleeves, the design of the plate, and fabric colors, I am 85% sure it was daywear.

A few things you might be noticing about the second half of the 1930s- necklines get a little lower, sleeves are much full and skirts get longer. There’s also a reduction, I think, in general whimsy and fashion becomes more somber.

Personally, I find it less fun, but then I’ve always been a more is more sort of person when it comes to historical fashion.

One thing is I wish I’d done a slightly better job of planning my paper dolls hair. In hindsight, being 20/20 as it is, I could have done wigs and that would have made the curls less of a challenge work around with the bonnets.

However, I didn’t think of that until I was literally writing up this post.

I do plan to do something with these when they’re all done. A book perhaps or an Etsy download or something, because I have more dresses I haven’t posted. So, maybe when I get to that point I’ll figure out the hair.

The nice thing about working digitally is that figuring out the hair will not require whiteout. I do not miss using white out.

Meanwhile, I hope you enjoy this little 1837 dress.

Next up, we’ll have 1838 and 1839 and then it’ll be a wrap on the 1830s paper doll project. If everything goes as planned, we should be done by the end of the month.

I’m so happy with how it all came together and I’ve learned so much in the process. I hope you’re learned something following along.

Soiree Styles for the Cut & Color Collection for my Patrons

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An 1836 Morning Dress for Ensemble Eclectica

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A fashion plate from Ladies Pocket Magazine from 1836. showing morning dress in brown
May 1836 Fashion plate from Ladies Pocket Magazine

Today’s dress from 1836 is a morning dress. Morning dresses were very casual and usually worn in the morning. As I’ve mentioned before, clothing got progressively more formal as you moved through the day. So, morning clothing was the most casual. Ballgowns for evening events were the most formal. There were also court gowns worn at court, but that’s a whole subsection of 19th century clothing that I am not going to dive into in this 1830s paper doll collection.

So, back to morning dresses. Morning dresses still had come in all sorts of levels of formality of course- the actual bathrobe to the sort of “lounging clothes” that you might wear to run to the store. I can’t say I’ve never gotten groceries in pajama pants (though I confess I tend to avoid it unless I am really desperate.)

The fashion plate comes from Ladies’ Pocket Magazine from May 1836. Ladies’ Pocket Magazine was a English publication printed out of London and it came out monthly. I find the plates in it are very mixed. Some are lovely and some much less so. I think they are pretty poor in the early 1800s and get better in the 1830s.

A key accessory paired with morning dresses was a cap, typically used to cover the hair. These caps were elaborately styled despite the casual nature of the ensemble. The one depicted alongside this dress is ruffled, adorned with charming bows, adding a touch of whimsy and individuality. One detail I particularly loved in the accompanying fashion plate is how the ribbon on the cap intentionally does not match the dress, creating an interesting contrast.

When I rendered this dress, I think I did an okay job, but I don’t think I really effectively captured the shape of the sleeves. Still, given that this isn’t an era I’m super familiar with, I’m pretty happy with the outcome over all.

An 1830s paper doll evening dress for the Ensemble Eclectica

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As you know, if you’ve been following long since December, I’ve been drawing a series of 1830s dresses, trying to draw one dress from each year of the decade. So, today’s gown is an 1830s paper doll evening dress, specifically from 1835. You can see all the gowns I’ve done up to this point and chose your favorite. Don’t worry if you’re not as into 1830s fashion as I am these days, I do have some other non-1830s paper doll things in the works.

In general, the basic rules of dressing in the 1830s: High-necklines for day, lower necklines for evening. Long sleeves are usually less formal than short sleeves. Given these guidelines, what we’re looking at here is an evening dress intended for dinner wear. Not a ballgown, but something worn to a nice dinner party. As the 1830s continued, you begin to see slightly longer skirts as you can tell from today’s 1835 evening dress.

A fashion plate from 1835 that appeared in the Ladies Pocket Magazine.
An English fashion plate from August 1835.

Fun fact: This was actually the first dress I drew for this whole project.

In choosing colors, I did my best to color match the original plate, because I found the deep maroonish-purple a really interesting color. Not one I would normally be attracted too. Wig got slightly edited to accommodate the paper dolls ringlet curls.

So, this design comes from a fashion plate in Ladies Pocket Magazine. The magazine was in print from 1824 until 1839. It published inferior copies of plates from other magazines, so the quality is sometimes lesser than what you see in higher end publications.

What’s interesting about Ladies’ Pocket Magazine is that it shows how fashion information spread, because magazines would simply copy each other. The cheaper the magazine, the more likely it contained copies from more expensive magazines. This information transmission pattern illustrates one way fashion spread from those creating trends to those following them.

It’s important to never forget that fashion magazines were aspirational. They didn’t always illustrate what people were wearing in a time period, as much as they illustrated what people aspired towards wearing. By the way, social media plays a similar role today. It’s going to be really interesting to see in the future how the fashion information landscape evolves.

I digress. Get me talking about fashion history and information ecosystems and you know, I will happily go on and on.

I hope you’re enjoying the 1830s as much as I am. Next up after this 1830s paper doll evening dress is a morning dress from 1836.

Exploring 1830s Women’s Underwear in Paper Dolls with Ensemble Eclectica

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The biggest fashion event of the 1830s was when Queen Victoria took the throne in 1837. Suddenly, curls were out and straight hair was in. Furthermore, Queen Victoria had a pretty conservative style, so necklines got higher and skirts got longer. Things began to get much less flamboyant as we move into the 1840s (which does make me a little sad.) Because of all the changes in hair, I thought it was important to make a second 1830s paper doll as well, so here she is. Her hair is parted dead center with curls over her ears. This impacted her bonnets in ways I hadn’t planned when I started.

Her walking shoes are based on this pair from Shoe Icons. I wanted to give her different shoes than my other 1830s paper doll.

Because I am creating paper dolls, there are technical limitations in illustrating underwear. It has to be able to be layered over properly for the gowns. So, I generally keep it simpler than it might have actually been in the time period. Really, early Victorian period women’s underwear was pretty darn complicated.

Late 1830s women’s underwear typically consisted of a pantalettes, chemise, petticoats, and a corset. The chemise was a loose slip-like garment made from lightweight cotton or linen, worn directly against the skin to protect outer clothing from perspiration. Chemises typically had wide necklines. Pantalettes (or “drawers”) covered the legs for modesty.

Her corset is based on this one from the Met. I made it blue, because I like blue. Speaking of corsets, the term “stays” was mostly out of use by this time. Corsets provided support through seams and cording, but more boning was starting to be used. (Boning, as usual, doesn’t mean actual bones. It’s whale baleen. Whale baleen was a by-product of the whaling industry, but that’s a whole different post on a whole different website.) By the end of the decade, corsets are starting to look like this with a lot more boning and a much more complicated design.

Are you still enjoying the 1830s with me? Ready to finish out the decade? Did you miss any of the paper dolls? You can grab them all under the early victorian fashion project tag.

An Opera Gown from 1833 in another Color for My Patrons

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An Opera Gown from 1833 for the Ensemble Eclectica

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It’s Christmas eve and had this project gone the way I had originally intended, there was going to be whole potential Christmas Carol tie in with the 1840s. Obviously, that didn’t happen. So, instead, I have this entirely not holiday related 1833 opera dress for our 1830s fashion history paper doll. Truth be told, I find the holidays a little exhausting, so I am actually okay with not being the most festive place on the internet.

There’s plenty of hyper-festive places out there if that’s your preference.

An Opera Dress from 1833 from the Casey Fashion Plate Index.

So, let’s talk about opera dresses. In the 1830s, opera dresses occupied a unique position in fashion, blending elements of both daywear and evening wear. Since attending the opera required going out, these dresses often included a bonnet, which was a daytime accessory. However, because the opera was an evening event, opera dresses typically featured lower necklines, similar to those of evening or dinner dresses. Despite this, they were still less formal than full ballgowns. Later in the 19th century, opera attire evolved further with the introduction of highly decorative opera coats, worn over dresses for added elegance.

As I mentioned when I was talking about the 1831 walking dress, evening dresses can be identified by having necklines that are much lower than day dresses. I chose this opera dress, because I really loved the bow details on the skirt. I decided against blue for the color scheme, because I’ve already done a blue dress for this 1830s fashion history paper doll. How many blue dresses does one paper doll need? After reading up on the 1830s in English Women’s Clothing of the Nineteenth Century by C. Willett Cunnington, I settled on rose instead. According to Cunnington, rose was one of the colors popular in the early 1830s. My own observations of fashion plates seems to corroborate this observation. There’s a lot of pink.

For those of you who celebrate, I hope you have a lovely Hanukkah and Christmas tomorrow. I plan to spend mine doing very little, though if I feel up for it, I might bake some cookies.

Later this week, there will be a second color scheme for this gown for my supporting Patrons as a thank you for all their incredible support this year. There might be a third post this week. I’m not sure yet. Things are a little complicated at present.

A Walking Dress from 1831 for Ensemble Eclectica

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Today’s paper doll gown is an 1831 walking dress. When I wrote about the 1830’s carriage dress last week, I talked about the silhouette of this era. So, I’ll save you all from having to listen to all that over again and focus on walking dresses.

Fashion plate from the June 1831 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library showing a pair of walking dresses.
Fashion plate from the June 1831 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library

Like that carriage dress, this 1831 walking dress is designed for daytime wear and intended for outdoor activities like walking. Dresses like this could also be worn when attending informal events, such as visits, shopping, or afternoon social gatherings. Like most day dresses of the 1830s, the necklines were high, covering the collar bone. Along with the dress, there were essential accessories- bonnets and gloves. These bonnets were often quite large with wide brims to shield the face from the sun and covered in lots of ribbon trim. Just like the dresses of the 1830s, bonnets were lavish.

This gown appeared in the The Lady’s Monthly Museum in June 1831. This magazine is a treasure trove of 1830s culture with serials, poetry, music, and, of course, lots of fashion.

When I was reinterpreting this dress for my paper doll, there were several elements that I really loved, both because of the design and in terms of how they reflected 1830s fashion. One of the first things that stood out to me was the color combination. I really liked the periwinkle blue paired with the green. This color combination felt fresh and historically appropriate, as the 1830s saw a wide range of bold and contrasting color choices in women’s fashion. Green was particularly popular, because of the development of artificial green pigments, like Paris green in 1814 and the earlier Scheele’s green.

Unfortunately, this type of green pigment was made from arsenic compounds, so it was very toxic. That didn’t dull it’s popularity. Generally, people didn’t realize how toxic these green dyes could be and it wasn’t until the 1890s that they were discontinued, though green fell out of fashion as a fashion color in the 1860s which might have something to do with the toxicity of the dye. Who knows? It did stick around as an insecticide into the 1930s and 1940s.

Man, history is weird. It boggles my mind to think that this dye/paint pigment, which was so popular in the 1830s, later became used as an insecticide. The things I learn researching paper dolls…

Fashion history often intersects with other unexpected parts of culture in such funny ways. I digress, as I often do.

Next up will be a dress from 1832 later this week.

The Carriage Dress: 1830 for Ensemble Eclectica

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Today’s 1830s paper doll dress is a carriage dress from June 1830. I’ve always loved the military inspired dresses of the 1830s and this is a great example.

Like any period of fashion, the 1830s had a specific fashionable silhouette. Women sought to achieve a wide, soft sloped shoulder line, very small waist, and full bell-shaped skirt that hit the ankles. The big sleeves, the wide skirts, the belts- all of these disparate elements came together to create the appearance of a smaller waist. The exaggerated fashionable silhouette is both charming and, at times, a little disquieting to the modern eye, I think. In poorly illustrated fashion plates, it sometimes ends up looking quite terrifying. For years, I disliked it. I remember as a child and teen seeing these dresses and thinking they looked so dumb.

A fashion plate from the publication The Lady's Monthly Museum in June of 1830 showing a carriage dress. This image is from the LA Public Library's Casey Fashion Plate Index.
Fashion plate from the June 1830 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library

Now that I’m older, I’ve actually come to find a sort of charm to the 1830s. Yes, it looks very silly, but there’s some real whimsy here. It’s such a ridiculous looking period in western fashion that I find it endearing. I also think there is tendency to think of the Victorian period as sepia-toned and very elegant, but I love the 1830s for being silly.

Let us embrace silly looking clothing!

So, this is a carriage dress. Carriage dresses were slightly more formal than walking dresses and were worn for carriage rides. They almost always feature a matching bonnet and as day dresses, they have a high neckline. (Basic 1830s rule of thumb: If the dress is a day dress, the neckline covers the collar bone. Evening dresses don’t, while ball gowns get positively risque with their necklines.)

This carriage dress was published in a fashion plate in the June 1830 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum which was a British periodical publication (so like a modern magazine) that started in 1798. It went through a few name changes and mergers, but ran until 1847. Along with fashion plates, it published biographies and portraits of famous aristocratic people, essays, and poems. Serialized stories also appeared in the Lady’s Monthly Museum, often before being published as novels. The magazine was quite successful and very exclusively aimed at women.

When I was reinterpreting this dress for my paper doll, I actually simplified it- which seems hard to imagine. The bonnet especially, because I wasn’t sure how to get the long trailing ribbons in a way that would work for the paper doll. I sort of regret omitting them, because they’re so typical of the period.

Lastly, and I want to be very clear here, this is a sort of new time period to me and I was learning as I drew this 1830s paper doll dress.