A Walking Dress from 1831 for Ensemble Eclectica

This is a paper doll dress is an 1831 walking dress in full color with a matching bonnet.
This is a paper doll coloring page is an 1831 walking dress with a matching bonnet.

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Today’s paper doll gown is an 1831 walking dress. When I wrote about the 1830’s carriage dress last week, I talked about the silhouette of this era. So, I’ll save you all from having to listen to all that over again and focus on walking dresses.

Fashion plate from the June 1831 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library showing a pair of walking dresses.
Fashion plate from the June 1831 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library

Like that carriage dress, this 1831 walking dress is designed for daytime wear and intended for outdoor activities like walking. Dresses like this could also be worn when attending informal events, such as visits, shopping, or afternoon social gatherings. Like most day dresses of the 1830s, the necklines were high, covering the collar bone. Along with the dress, there were essential accessories- bonnets and gloves. These bonnets were often quite large with wide brims to shield the face from the sun and covered in lots of ribbon trim. Just like the dresses of the 1830s, bonnets were lavish.

This gown appeared in the The Lady’s Monthly Museum in June 1831. This magazine is a treasure trove of 1830s culture with serials, poetry, music, and, of course, lots of fashion.

When I was reinterpreting this dress for my paper doll, there were several elements that I really loved, both because of the design and in terms of how they reflected 1830s fashion. One of the first things that stood out to me was the color combination. I really liked the periwinkle blue paired with the green. This color combination felt fresh and historically appropriate, as the 1830s saw a wide range of bold and contrasting color choices in women’s fashion. Green was particularly popular, because of the development of artificial green pigments, like Paris green in 1814 and the earlier Scheele’s green.

Unfortunately, this type of green pigment was made from arsenic compounds, so it was very toxic. That didn’t dull it’s popularity. Generally, people didn’t realize how toxic these green dyes could be and it wasn’t until the 1890s that they were discontinued, though green fell out of fashion as a fashion color in the 1860s which might have something to do with the toxicity of the dye. Who knows? It did stick around as an insecticide into the 1930s and 1940s.

Man, history is weird. It boggles my mind to think that this dye/paint pigment, which was so popular in the 1830s, later became used as an insecticide. The things I learn researching paper dolls…

Fashion history often intersects with other unexpected parts of culture in such funny ways. I digress, as I often do.

Next up will be a dress from 1832 later this week.

The Carriage Dress: 1830 for Ensemble Eclectica

A printable coloring page of an 1830s paper doll dress. It is a carriage dress with military details and matching bonnet.
A printable 1830s paper doll dress. It is a carriage dress with military details and matching bonnet in a rich teal green.

Download Black and White PDF | Download Color PDF | More Paper Dolls from the Ensemble Eclectica Series

Today’s 1830s paper doll dress is a carriage dress from June 1830. I’ve always loved the military inspired dresses of the 1830s and this is a great example.

Like any period of fashion, the 1830s had a specific fashionable silhouette. Women sought to achieve a wide, soft sloped shoulder line, very small waist, and full bell-shaped skirt that hit the ankles. The big sleeves, the wide skirts, the belts- all of these disparate elements came together to create the appearance of a smaller waist. The exaggerated fashionable silhouette is both charming and, at times, a little disquieting to the modern eye, I think. In poorly illustrated fashion plates, it sometimes ends up looking quite terrifying. For years, I disliked it. I remember as a child and teen seeing these dresses and thinking they looked so dumb.

A fashion plate from the publication The Lady's Monthly Museum in June of 1830 showing a carriage dress. This image is from the LA Public Library's Casey Fashion Plate Index.
Fashion plate from the June 1830 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum digitized by the LA Public Library

Now that I’m older, I’ve actually come to find a sort of charm to the 1830s. Yes, it looks very silly, but there’s some real whimsy here. It’s such a ridiculous looking period in western fashion that I find it endearing. I also think there is tendency to think of the Victorian period as sepia-toned and very elegant, but I love the 1830s for being silly.

Let us embrace silly looking clothing!

So, this is a carriage dress. Carriage dresses were slightly more formal than walking dresses and were worn for carriage rides. They almost always feature a matching bonnet and as day dresses, they have a high neckline. (Basic 1830s rule of thumb: If the dress is a day dress, the neckline covers the collar bone. Evening dresses don’t, while ball gowns get positively risque with their necklines.)

This carriage dress was published in a fashion plate in the June 1830 issue of The Lady’s Monthly Museum which was a British periodical publication (so like a modern magazine) that started in 1798. It went through a few name changes and mergers, but ran until 1847. Along with fashion plates, it published biographies and portraits of famous aristocratic people, essays, and poems. Serialized stories also appeared in the Lady’s Monthly Museum, often before being published as novels. The magazine was quite successful and very exclusively aimed at women.

When I was reinterpreting this dress for my paper doll, I actually simplified it- which seems hard to imagine. The bonnet especially, because I wasn’t sure how to get the long trailing ribbons in a way that would work for the paper doll. I sort of regret omitting them, because they’re so typical of the period.

Lastly, and I want to be very clear here, this is a sort of new time period to me and I was learning as I drew this 1830s paper doll dress.

An 1830s Paper Doll Printable with her Historical Underwear for Ensemble Eclectica

An 1830s printable paper doll coloring page wearing a set of 1830s underwear consisting of a corset, pantalettes, and chemise. Her hair is up in curls and her shoes are tied with ribbon laces. Commentary on the image describes each of these parts.
An 1830s printable paper doll with a set of 1830s underwear consisting of a red corset, drawers, and chemise. Her brunette hair is up in curls and her shoes are tied with ribbon laces.

Download Black and White PDF | Download Color PDF | More Paper Dolls from the Ensemble Eclectica Series

The Backstory of All This

I originally planned to spend all of December on a big project. It was going to be a series of paper dolls from 1830 to 1859. Julie Matthews’ December themes (like this one from 2015) inspired this idea, back when I started thinking about it. However, that didn’t quite go as planned — life happens. And that’s okay. My new plan is slightly smaller in scope. I’ll be posting paper dolls with historical clothing from the 1830s (and maybe 1840s and 1850s) on Tuesdays and Thursdays for the rest of December and possibly into January. Who can say? Not me.

I tend to hesitate about sharing things before they’re complete, because I dislike leaving projects undone. But lately, I’ve realized that’s a bit silly. Drawing paper dolls isn’t life or death, and it’s okay if things don’t go exactly as planned. I’d rather share what I’ve done and keep moving forward than leave the work sitting unfinished on my laptop. Plus, I think you’ll enjoy seeing the project even if it doesn’t work out like I had originally imagined it would.

In fact, no one would know I’d planned to do the 1840s and 1850s, if I hadn’t said anything. But here I am, being very honest. (I haven’t even started collecting reference images for the 1850s, so I am quite behind on that one. Probably won’t happen, which makes me sort of sad, honestly.)

Women’s Underwear In the Early 1830s

So, let’s talk a little about 1830’s women’s underwear, since today’s 1830s paper doll printable is a lady with some undies on. I based her underwear off this set from the V&A museum, though I made the stays/corset colorful based on this one.

In the 1830s, women’s underwear primarily consisted of a chemise, pantalettes, petticoats and a corset/stays. (Fun fact: The words “corset” and “stays” are both used in the 1830s, but the term “stays” largely falls out of use by the end of the decade.) Generally, these corsets used seams and cording providing support, rather then boning. (Also, boneing doesn’t mean bones- it means whale baleen.)

The chemise was a loose, knee-length garment made from lightweight cotton or linen, worn directly against the skin to safeguard outer garments from perspiration. Chemise’s had wide necklines. Pantalettes (also spelled pantaletes) or drawers covered the legs and provided some more modesty. I can’t seem to definitively determine which is the more precise term. Both terms seem to have been employed to describe similar garments and I’m not an expert on 1830s clothing.

Though not appearing in this 1830s paper doll printable, petticoats supported the wide skirts of the era. Here’s a lovely example from the Met. This is before anyone invented hoopskirts, so women wore lots of petticoats. Additionally, women often wore sleeve supports (like this or these) to get the right shape for the huge puffed sleeves of the era called, “sleeve puffs” which is the most wonderful name. I didn’t add sleeve puffs to the paper doll, because I wanted flexibility with sleeve shape, as it changes throughout the decade, and the puffs would have made that more difficult. Sometimes with paper dolls, functionality has to trump historical accuracy. (But man… I really do want to draw sleeve puffs someday.)

WIP Insight for Patrons: A Paper Doll Project, Delayed, Modified, but Not Defeated

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Absolutely thrilled to be featured in Colouring Heaven Magazine!

I have some really cool news that I wanted to share. Colouring Heaven magazine issue 74 will feature my paper dolls! I’m so excited (excited enough to be using exclamation points which I tend to view as an insidious form of punctuation.)

This all started a few months ago when the incredible team at Colouring Heaven magazine contacted me about licensing some of my paper dolls for one of their upcoming issues – an issue devoted to paper dolls! I am thrilled that it’s live now as a print version (with really great paper) or a digital printable version.

For those who might not be familiar, Colouring Heaven is a UK publication (hence the British spelling). They produce some of the most beautiful coloring magazines out there. I’ve actually bought several of their coloring books for my niece, and she LOVES them! (We spent a lot of Thanksgiving coloring together.)

What makes all this more meaningful to me is that Colouring Heaven publishes human-only art, a cause I’m all for. As you can imagine, I’m honored to be part of this great magazine. My hope is that this helps introduce paper dolls to even more people. The more paper dolls in the world, the better, right?

As I mentioned above, the magazine is available in a print version or a digital printable version. I think it will also be available on newsstands in the UK.

Foxglove & Butterflies: Cut & Color Couture

A printable black and white foxglove princess paper doll coloring page with a doll, a dress and an overdress decorated with foxglove.

Download Black and White PDF | More Paper Dolls from the Cut & Color Couture Series

Last week, I posted Ruffles and Dragons, a paper doll gown that Chinese motifs inspired. After I finished drawing that paper doll, I became fascinated with the idea of doing a totally different feeling dress with the same silhouette of the overdress and a different under dress. So, I ended up with this foxglove princess paper doll.

Stained glass inspired this princess paper doll’s gown. My mother makes beautiful stained glass and I was thinking of stained glass lamps, especially the way the leading on stained glass highlights and breaks things into shapes.

I drew the foxglove, because I really love foxglove flowers. It’s one of the few plants that grows super well in Southeast Alaska where I grew up. Also, as a kid, I thought it was cool how poisonous it is while being so pretty looking. I was trying to stretch a little. I also thought the shape would fit will into the panels of the overdress. So, while it wasn’t really a well planned project, that’s how I ended up with a foxglove princess paper doll.

The underdress I had originally planned to pair with the dragon overdress, but I didn’t think the ribbons really fit in with the dragons. That was when I came up with the idea of the spirals that I used on that dress. So, for this dress, I was thinking about white victorian gowns. Ruching details decorate the sides of the bodice.

I’m really excited about how this gown turned out. It’s been fun to explore new themes and experiment with different influences—stained glass, nature, and princess dresses. While the process wasn’t entirely planned, that’s okay! I think sometimes things are fun as little experiments. As always, feel free to share your thoughts or suggestions for future designs — I’d love to hear what inspires you.

A Pair of Paper Doll Books: A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney & Ellen’s Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll by Patti Fertel

I recently realized I had forgotten to renew my subscription to Paper Doll Review magazine. So, I hopped over to Paper Doll Review and while I was there I decided to pick up a few new paper doll books. I mean, I was there anyway right?

(This was totally my justification.)

Two books lay on a wooden table they are A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney and Ellen's Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll by Patti Fertel.
A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney & Ellen’s Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll by Patti Fertel

So, I picked up A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney and Ellen’s Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll by Patti Fertel. Both books are beautiful, of course.

Since both of these are historical paper doll books, I thought I would group them together in one blog post. I did get one other paper doll book, but that one I’ll save for another post.

If you’re thinking… Rachel, are you just writing up a post about paper doll books to justify that fact that you bought them? Why yes, yes I am. But also because I really respect the work that goes into putting these books together and I want to celebrate that.

So without further delay…

A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney

The front cover of A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney.
The black cover of A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney.
The illustration for Ancient Crete in A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney.

Let’s start with a few of the basic details. A Timeline of Fashion is in the usual Paper Doll Review book format- one book, eight pages. The book is larger than letter size, but I didn’t measure it. It’s got a lovely blue border. As always, the paper used by Paper Doll Review feels like butter.

The dolls are printed on the same weight stock as the clothing. If I was going to cut up and play with this, I think that would bug me a little. That’s just because I grew up with Dover paper doll books which were printed on gloss cardstock all the way through. So, that’s just a little “Rachel has a bias about this” thing.

There’s eight time periods covered in A Timeline of Fashion: Ancient Crete, Medieval (specifically the 1400s), Italian Renaissance (specifically Venice), Tudor, Regency, Antebellum (1860s), the Early 1900s (Gibson Girl era) and the 1930s. If that list feels a little random. It is a little random. I love that this set jumps from 1400 BCE to 1400 CE, like a 3000 year division is totally a reasonable step in a fashion timeline.

The illustration for Renaissance Venice in The illustration for Ancient Crete in A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney.
The illustration for Gibson Girl in The illustration for Ancient Crete in A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney.
The illustration for the Gold Age of Hollywood in The illustration for Ancient Crete in A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney.

I digress.

One thing that really struck me as I was looking through A Timeline of Fashion which I found particularly enchanting was the faces of the dolls. Every doll feels very unique and based on what little I know about the beauty standards of the eras, each one feels like it is attempting to embody them. I loved that.

I also loved the care that clearly went into selecting the borders of each plate. Each border felt very appropriate to the time period and colors of the paper doll and her fashion. All in all, a lovely book I’m very happy I have added to my collection.

Ellen’s Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll by Patti Fertel

Patti Fertel’s Ellen’s Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll is really unusual. She specializes in adapting fashion plates into paper dolls. How cool is that? (Also I met her in Indiana at the Paper Doll Convention and she’s a delightful person.)

Each dress is based on an illustration from 1864 appearing in Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly magazine. So a little history to start us off – Ellen Louise Demorest nee Curtis invented the tissue paper pattern and, along with her husband, started a magazine to promote the patterns. Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly Magazine and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions had very wide circulation in the United States in the 1860s. Not only are the dresses coming from those fashion plates, but the magazine would describe the colors, so each dress is also colored matching those suggestions. These would have been black and white, I assume, so Fertel colored them.

What a fun project. I love it.

The front cover of Patti Fertel's Ellen's Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll.
The back cover of Patti Fertel's Ellen's Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll
Two dresses from Patti Fertel's Ellen's Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll book.

The book has one doll and ten dresses. The doll’s profile pose really shows off the shape of mid-1860s skirts where the fullness was moving towards the back of the skirt. In about 6ish years, this would become a bustle, but fashion wasn’t there quite yet in 1864. The shading on the doll resembles the lines used to shade engravings, which are what the dresses are adapted from. Also, look at her tiny feet! Very 19th century.

What really struck me, as I flipped through the book, was how much the care was taken to select each dress. You see a fun cross section of women’s fashions from the 1860s from formal to casual wear and ending, of course, in a wedding gown.

In interior page showing a gown from Patti Fertel's Ellen's Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll book.
In interior page showing a gown from Patti Fertel's Ellen's Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll book.
In interior page showing a wedding gown from Patti Fertel's Ellen's Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll book.

As someone who loves fashion plates, I just find the idea of adapting them in this way really enchanting. As always, the attention to detail Paper Doll Review puts into all their books is really apparent in this one. The frames are beautiful and each one reflects the colors of the gowns. It’s such a beautiful book.

Victorian magazines refer to children cutting up newspapers and other publications to make paper dolls. So, there’s something really fun about the idea of using fashion plates in this way. It feels like a throw back to something a child might have done in the 1860s and I love that.

If you want to grab your own copies of either of these beautiful paper doll books, you can do that from Paper Doll Review. I highly recommend both A Timeline of Fashion by Tom Tierney and Ellen’s Elegant Fashion Plate Paper Doll by Patti Fertel. They’re great books and I’m super happy to have added them to my collection.

Ruffles & Dragons: Cut & Color Couture

A storybook princess paper doll coloring page with a gown decorating with dragon motifs and a fancy hair-do. She has accessories. The doll is Asian and Chinese clothing inspired the motifs on the dresses.

Download Black and White PDF | More Paper Dolls from the Cut & Color Couture Series

Happy Friday!

I confess that I’ve been struggling to focus on anything paper doll related this last few days. Had I been on the ball, I would have pre-scheduled things, but I didn’t. Eh. The world keeps turning, so here we are.

Moving on from that, today’s paper doll coloring page is my first Asian paper doll for the Cut and Color Couture series. Chinese clothing inspired the motifs on the dress and the over dress. I don’t like attaching ethnicity to my paper dolls, but describing her as a paper doll with an epicanthic fold on her eyes is probably not going to play nice with the search engines. (And like it or not, a certain amount of playing nice with Search Engines is how I have to roll.)

I originally designed this paper doll’s dress as an experiment in layering two pieces over each other. Back when I was a kid, I really love layered bid skirted dresses. I used to buy this one sticker paper doll over and over again called the Storybook Princess paper doll. It was only 1.50 in those days. It is a sticker paper doll book (which I was delighted to find out you can still buy it.) The doll had tops and skirts you could put together to make princess gowns. It’s a great paper doll.

In honor of that love of princess gowns, I designed my own storybook princess paper doll version. The spiral motifs on both the dress and the overdress are somewhat based on the motifs you see on 19th century Chinese clothing. This Han women’s jacket, this sleeveless jacket, or this Manchu woman’s outer gown all have spiral designs on them. It’s a very loose connection, but that’s what was inspiring me.

The dragons were originally going to be butterflies, but I draw a lot of butterflies. So, I thought dragons would be a bit more of a change of pace. I don’t love the design I ended up with, because it feels a little too aggressive. This doesn’t really reflect that you see with dragons as decorative motifs on actual Chinese pieces.

Dragons show up on a lot as Chinese decorative motifs, you can see some here from the Jin Dynasty or this one from a roof tile or these on a dragon robe. My limited understanding is that Dragon robes, also known as gunlongpao, were worn by Chinese emperors. To count as a dragon, it has to have five claws. My dragons only have four claws, which I think means they are not imperial dragons. (I think? I ended up down a whole four-clawed vs five-clawed dragon rabbit hole and I still don’t totally know that difference in how they were used. I do know one had four and one had five claws. That’s all I got.)

Anyway, I digress.

This is the first of two of these designs, because I was having a lot of fun with that overdress. The second version is more floral. That might be up next week.

Happy Halloween!

A printable halloween paper doll with a regency gothic fashion style. The doll has two dresses.
A halloween paper doll coloring page with two dresses and a regency paper doll theme.

Download Black and White PDF | Download Color PDF | More Paper Dolls from the Ensemble Eclectica Series

When I was a child, my grandmother always sent me a holiday card for Halloween and usually it was a paper doll card. This is why I always try to do a halloween paper doll.

Generally, when I think of gothic designs, I think of Morticia Addams from the movies. (Too young to have been a child of the TV show I’m afraid) and she’s a very mermaid skirts sort of design. However, I don’t see why mermaid skirts should get to have all the fun, so I went regency for this one. 

All in all, I think the paper doll’s hair is a bit 1920s and her dresses are regency and her border is very much art nuevo. All in all, what time period is this?

No idea, but I think it looks neat!

I hope you have a lovely safe and happy Halloween. Enjoy the paper dolls! I’ll be passing out candy and eating chili.

Celestial Night Blooming: A Fantasy Paper Doll

Download Black and White PDF | Download Color PDF | More Paper Dolls from the Ensemble Eclectica Series

I have no clue where to start when talking about today’s paper doll. I rarely give up on paper dolls (semi-finished projects not withstanding, that’s using a loss of interest, not frustration), but this fantasy princess night blooming paper doll came close. Twice.

To start with, there were serious layout issues. Confession: I don’t plan my layouts while I’m drawing my paper dolls.

(I had a lovely chat with at a pervious paper doll event and got advice that planning layouts while penciling is a much easier way to get around layout issues. This was such brilliant advice! And then I absolutely failed in all ways imaginable to actually follow through on the advice in anyway what-so-ever. Anyway, I should do it that way and I totally don’t. This is entirely a “me” problem.)

So, anyhow, when it came time to do the layout, I realized that none of these paper doll pieces were going to fit on the page! The dresses were too big. The wig/crown was weirdly sized. The extra bodice… anyway, I wracked my brain to sort out how to make this all happen. It was miserable. It took seven tries.

In the end, my solution was to go right up to the edge of my layout, because I work on an 8 by 10.5 inch canvas and surely no one needs more than a 1/4 inch margin on the page, right? Right… I got it done.

So, yay! Time to color. That would be easy, right? Wrong.

It started well. I found this beautiful color scheme from Sarah Renae Clark. When I saw it, I thought “What a perfect color scheme. It’s dark, but also kind of fun and unlike the colors I usually use.” But halfway through coloring, I thought it looked so awful I nearly threw up my hands and abandoned the entire thing. I came so close to just saying- Welp, this one was a dud.

Anyway, yesterday, I knew I didn’t have anything to post to the blog for this week and I said, “Just color it. Even if you hate it at the end, at least it will be done and you can never look at it again.”

I set a timer (I work well under the pressure of a timer) and I pushed through.

And you know what?

I absolutely love it. The gold and yellow I think goes beautiful with the black and pink. I really think it feels “night” but doesn’t feel gothic at all. I wanted night, but whimsy. Night, but also floral.

So, yes, this paper doll gave me fits. And yes, I nearly gave up, but here I am and I am so happy with how it came out.

Ensemble Electica: Sweat in Style

A sporty fashion paper doll with an 11 piece mix and match wardrobe. She's a coloring page.
A sporty fashion paper doll with an 11 piece mix and match wardrobe. She has a micro-afro and a soft ocean inspired color scheme.

Download Black and White PDF | Download Color PDF | More Paper Dolls from the Ensemble Eclectica Series

Around the same time I was working on my tennis paper doll, I found myself thinking- I should draw some work out clothing for the Ensemble Electica paper dolls. Mostly, I was thinking this, because I hadn’t yet and who doesn’t want to draw paper doll leggings? (Probably plenty of people, but they don’t run a paper doll website.)

Personally, my favorite workout is yoga. I love how I feel after I do yoga. So, I included a yoga mat and the kind of clothing I would wear to do yoga if I was the sort of person who had dedicated yoga outfits. Aspirational yoga attire. My actual yoga attire is leggings and an oversized t-shirt with a walrus on it from the Indianapolis zoo, because the walrus is really cute and I like walrus.

So, this isn’t really a yoga paper doll, as much as a sporty fashion paper doll. Maybe she’s old school and going to step aerobics. (I actually also kinda love step aerobics.) Maybe she’s just putting on cute workout clothing to go out and buy a bagel. Who can say?

The dress was an extra piece from my tennis paper doll that I thought I would use here, as it wouldn’t fit on the tennis paper doll as I was doing the layout. Maybe she’s a really good tennis player.

Since I drew my sporty fashion paper doll and was coloring her at the same time I colored my tennis fashion paper doll, the most important thing to me was that the color scheme feel totally different. I didn’t want it to have the same vibe at all. So, the tennis paper doll’s vibe is very bright and fresh. This vibe is more calming and low key.