Download Black and White PDF | More July Project Paper Dolls
Sources:
- Epistolary and Apocalypse of Charles the Bold, 217r, in French from Belgium, Bruges ca. 1470 held by the Morgan Library.
- Boccace, Des cleres et nobles femmes, view 188 held by the National Library of France circa 1459-1496.
- L’Epistre d’Othea, 59v by Christine de Pizan held by The Hague, Koninklijke Bibliotheek circa 1450-1475.
- A portrait of Maria Maddalena Baroncelli, born 1456, painted by Hans Memling circa 1470 held by the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
- Tristan en Prose, 20r, held by Bibliothèque de Genève circa 1470.
- Piece of wool and silk velvet from Italy held by the V&A dating from 1450 to 1500
Today’s 15th century fashion paper doll is more cobbled together from a variety of primary sources than my last paper doll attempt at the 15th century. The dress is a late 15th century fashion for women from France, but it’s been pieced together a bit. It’s impossible to know if someone from that era would recognize it.
These dresses are called Burgundian gowns and are named for the Duchy of Burgundy which was super rich and fashionable in the 15th century. France has always had the best clothing, I guess.
About 1450, this style of gown became popular. The deep V-neckline revealed the kirtle (under dress) beneath. The trimming could be wool or fur (mostly fur, from what I have seen). The wide belt was placed above the natural waist and gives the gowns a pregnant look. The belts are decorated in studs or with super fancy buckles and can be fastened in front (like this one) or behind (like this one).
I decided to forgo the more popular fur trimming on these gowns for something else, though I am regretting that a little, because fur was certainly more commonly depicted. The hennin headdress is somewhat of a mix of several styles that I saw. The headdresses in this era fascinate me, but I confess I don’t know much about them. I get the sense that they carry a lot of meaning, but I’ll be darned if I can figure out what that meaning is.
I do have another paper doll from this era drafted, but I haven’t finished her yet, because I need to pick out shoes. I wanted to do a doll, because of the headdresses and the fact that fashionable women in the 15th century plucked their hairline which is obvious in portraits like this one or this one. It helps with the headdresses, I think.
Anyway, the dresses’ motif was handplaced and was drawn off this wool and silk velvet in the V&A, though I did simplify it a lot. I sort of had too. I’m still learning how to do patterns in Procreate and I need to work on that more. So many things to learn. Since I got a new ipad, I am discovering that I need to get used to how it “feels” which is different from how my older model felt.
